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Resin ?
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I just saw this post and might as well add my $.02 worth. I have been using a brand of resin called “Let’s Resin”. It is, so far, the least expensive I have found. I have seen it used on YouTube, so I know it has a following. Use their Deep Pour resin often. I buy the 3 Gallon kit and if you are willing to sign up up for their emails and such you can get the 3 Gallon kit for as little as 142.00 or so.

Continued

3    No. You wont get a matte finish—not naturally. 

If you want a matte finish the easiest way is to paint on a coat of a matte finish polyurethane varnish.  A more difficult way is to sand or abrade the surface.

  Polyurethane, by the way is also naturally glossy. To make it lose some of the shine, the matte and semi-gloss versions have varying amounts of finely ground plastic particles added to them. 

When using these you need to stir the mix well, and keep stirring  it as you apply the finish. If you don’t keep stirring, these particles settle to the bottom of the can. The magic  here is that you only need the top coat to be matte. So you can scratch and sand the bottom layers, or put on 3 or 4 coats of your matte polyethylene— but if you cover that with a coat of glossy finish, all the previous applications are for nothing. You get a glossy finish.

 If you want to try mixing some of the same matting agents into a batch of epoxy, I would expect variable  results. The epoxy is applied much thicket than a varnish, and (usually) takes  a lot longer to set up. It is also more viscous than polyurethane. Some of the matting agent would sink into the resin before it gelled. Possibly you might get better results of you used a UV hardening epoxy, which sets up in seconds. I have not read of anyone trying this. The UV curing epoxy is so much more expensive than polyurethane that there is little reason to try it.   

Paul Jacobson


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1.). I’d pick any major brand and variety first, then shop for the best price.  If you need a slow cure resin for a single deep pour, then find that product which is designed for the pour thickness. If you are doing multiple thin pours—perhaps because you are embedding items that ‘float’ in the resin, then you’ll be able to use resins designed for thinner pours.  These set up faster because their reactions are hotter, and would be too hot if used for a deeper pour. 

The major brands like System 3, Total boat, West Systems, MAS, Alumilite, and others, offer products tested and tailored to specific project requirements. These traits are well documented and products should be reliable.   It is worth a few dollars more.

2.  Almost all epoxies are filled with re-actable chemical components, and have close to zero volatile organic compounds. That doesn’t mean they have no smell, just that the aroma is not from organic compounds (usually petroleum derivatives) that are volatile, and evaporate easily.  

The big exception to this would  be the penetrating epoxies which are thinned by adding a lot of solvents. These are designed to soak deeply into rotting and punky wood. When the solvents evaporate and the resin hardens it becomes harder than the original wood, and all moisture is sealed out so further rotting can’t happen. 

3. No. Not naturally. If you want a matte finish theceafiredt 





Sent from my iPhone

I have done some resin work over the years for myself and a few friends. It has been at least two years since I have purchased any resins and have a few questions. The project I am getting ready to start will have a depth of no more than 1 1/2 inches.

1) suggestions for resin to purchase (i.e. brand based on quality and price).

2) how much of a concern are VOCs at this point?

3) are there any resins that have a matte finish?

Thanks for your input.

Terry
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